Review of electric flight

Wasp Super Micro Helicopter

May 28th, 2009 captain

After the disappointment of the Abc-Intl.net Mini-Copter, I though I’d give another Hughes 300 shaped model a try.  In this case it is the Wasp Super Micro Helicopter from Gift House International.

Wasp

The differences between the Wasp and the Mini-Copter are minor, although there are enough to suggest that it is not the same model with a different color canopy.

Wasp and Mini-Copter

Wasp and PicooZ

Configuration

The Wasp is conventionally arranged with a twin blade 132mm diameter main rotor and 30mm tail rotor.  The Plastic fuselage houses the battery, electronics and the motor that drives the main rotor through a large low set gearwheel.

Turning the helicopter over reveals the recessed on/off switch and charging socket.

Above the main rotor is the stabilizer bar.  Where as Silverlit models use a weighted propeller and the Mini-Copter uses weighted paddles, the Wasp simply uses cylindrical weights.

Controller

Unlike the Mini-Copter the controller is visually different from the PicooZ’s.  Operationally it is similar, except for a rotary trimming knob instead of buttons.  This is a much better solution allowing for more accurate adjustment.

Wasp and Controller

As is now standard, the infra-red controller doubles as the charging station.  A hatch on the controller slides down to reveal an umbilical cable that plugs into the socket on the underside fuselage.  The cable is short and stiff, so the Wasp ends up hanging over the edge of the controller during charging.

Wasp Charging

With the power switch on, the charge LED will illuminate until the battery is full.  Not mentioned in the manual is that the red power LED starts flashing if the batteries need replacing.

Airspace

The instruction sheet doesn’t quote a minimum room size.  I’d recommend 3m x 4m x 2m.  Avoid rooms with strong air currents, bright lights or strong sunlight.

Flying

Initial impressions were good.  The main rotor control was precise and the rotary trim accurate allowing for smooth hovering.  The Wasp had quite a lot of forward speed, but a twist of the tail boom reduced this something more reasonable.

The first problem was that steering was slow and the Wasp tended to swing back when the stick was centred. As the flight progressed I found that the right turn became less and less effective, until even holding the stick right over had no effect.  Without right turn, controlled flight was impossible.

After the fourth flight I found that if I let it sit for a while a bit of right turn control returned, but this soon went after a short flight.  This may indicate that as the battery gets fully conditioned in about another six flights things may improve, although I’m not sure I can be bothered to try.

Conclusion

I bought the Wasp to replace the problematic Mini-Copter.  However, it seems to have almost exactly the same issues with directional control.  There are positive reports of the Wasp at Play.com so other people can’t have found this problem.  For me, I’m  still sticking with a genuine PicooZ.

Postscript

After some more charge cycles I’m actually finding that the problem is getting worse.

Facts and Figures

Whats in the box

  • Wasp helicopter
  • Combined infra-red transmitter and charging station
  • Instruction Sheet

You have to supply

  • 6 x AA batteries
  • Cross-head screwdriver in order to fit them.

Dimensions

  • Main rotor diameter: 132 mm
  • Fuselage length: 135 mm
  • Height: 70 mm
  • Weight: 12 grammes

Manufacturers Website

Available in the UK From

Replacing a Tail Rotor Motor

April 1st, 2009 captain

While flying the Silverlit MX-1 in my lounge in did it’s dropping out of the air trick and landed in some “old man’s beard” Christmas tree decoration.  This stuff is like loose cotton wool and tangled itself in the tail rotor.

To remove the fibres I had to pull off the tail rotor, but I wasn’t gripping the motor hard enough and pulled it out of the housing, breaking off the power wires in the process.  Inspection of the motor showed that it would not be possible to re-attach the wires.

Finding a New motor

A search around the Internet located a source of replacement motor from http://www.servoshop.co.uk/.  They are currently selling for £3.99 plus p&p.  I bought two so I would have a spare.

Fitting

The blue and red lead on the MX-1 where pulled out of the motor housing and the ends where scrapped to remove their insulating enamel coating.  These leads are multi-stranded and each strand has it’s own coating, so you are never going to remove all of it.  You are just looking to remove enough for the solder to bond to.

The new motors come fitted with two short leads, also blue and red, so it seemed logical to match then blue to blue, red to red with the MX-1 wires.  The motor was pushed into the housing with it’s wires exiting through the vent holes at the back.

I twisted the MX-1 and motor leads together and applied a drop of solder to form the joint.

A quick test showed the tail rotor was spinning the wrong way, so with solder pump in hand, I removed the solder and rewired the connections blue to red.  Small wires and big fingers don’t make for the neatest job ever, but it’s working.

MX-1 New Tail Motor

The replacement motor, wiring and solder has added some extra weight to the tail rotor, requiring the addition of some extra BluTak under the nose.

I can’t say if the new motor is an exact replacement for the old one.  I feel that I need a little trim than before, but once added, flight performance and handling seems the same.